Bubbles

I almost glued up the ikebana today.  But upon inspection found some imperfections.  Each level had one corner which had some bubbles dried into the shellac.  This is a little bit frustrating, as I really thought I had checked all around each piece, as I applied the last coat.  I even rememered finding some bubbles and going over them with the foam brush.

As I learn more, from doing, applying finish becomes less frightening.  But just like cutting dovetails, one must not be hasty during the process.  Bubbles aren’t a problem while wipping on tung oil, but they love shellac.  Those little buggers seem to want to pop up everywhere.  On the up side, bubbles are easy to fix.  I just need to sand them down and apply some more shellac.  So that is what I did.  I will glue it up tomorrow.

The Henry Wood goes well. I figured out how to write the NCX code, for the TOC (Table of Contents).  It is not terribly complex code, but I did have some troubles finding a good example.  Why is it important to have NCX code, instead of just typing up the TOC, one might ask.  The NCX code is what allows a Kindle user to click on the table of contents and jump immediately to the chapter they wish to read.  Now I assume that anyone starting Henry Wood, will, upon getting into the first chapter, be so enthralled, as to prefer death to stopping reading.  So it may never come up.

I still wanted to add it, because, like everything on this journey, I like to learn.  The next book may be about photography tips.  This would be a perfect example of a book, which a reader would want to jump to a specific chapter of interest.  Now I realize that most of you may not be interested in ever publishing to a Kindle or other epub format, but for those who are, let me show you the code I have for Henry Wood.

 

NCX Table of Contents Code

The first line is important.  I don’t know why, but I imagine it tells the Kindle something important.  The second line, h3 is a heading type, the alignment is to the center, and the the word ‘Contents’ is displayed, followed by the closed /h3 tag.  Then the 3rd line starts by aligning the chapter in the center too, adds the identifyer for the anchor, and then the portion which will be displayed ‘January 1955′

<div name=”toc”>
<h3 align=”center”>Contents</h3>
<p align=”center”>1 – <a href=”#chapter1″>January 1955</a></p>

After one has created a line for each chapter heading, one must then add the anchor to space before each chapter.  It looks like this. 
<div id=”chapter1″>

And I placed it right before the chapter heading  <p><b>Chapter 1</b></p>.

It all looks pretty confusing, but it is important to include.  I want Henry Wood to be of the best quality possible, much like I want the ikebana to be bubble free.  So now I need to create a jpg file for the Title Page, and figure out how to include a photo.  Then I will be ready to hit publish.  I would imagine that by the time I do figure this out, the repair coat will be dry, and I can glue up the ikebana.

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FWIW, I find it much easier to pad on shellac, although it does take more coats (to get the same build) and a final sanding with 600+ to get a smooth surface. I've never used it on small object, though ... just larger table tops and things of that nature.

It all looks pretty confusing, but it is important to include. I want Henry Wood to be of the best quality possible, much like I want the ikebana to be bubble free. So now I need to create a jpg file for the Title Page, and figure out how to include a photo. Then I will be ready to hit publish. I would imagine that by the time I do figure this out, the repair coat will be dry, and I can glue up the ikebana.

Sometimes you should quit when you're ahead.

FWIW, I find it much easier to pad on shellac, although it does take more coats (to get the same build) and a final sanding with 600+ to get a smooth surface. I've never used it on small object, though ... just larger table tops and things of that nature.