Bubbles
I almost glued up the ikebana today. But upon inspection found some imperfections. Each level had one corner which had some bubbles dried into the shellac. This is a little bit frustrating, as I really thought I had checked all around each piece, as I applied the last coat. I even rememered finding some bubbles and going over them with the foam brush.
As I learn more, from doing, applying finish becomes less frightening. But just like cutting dovetails, one must not be hasty during the process. Bubbles aren’t a problem while wipping on tung oil, but they love shellac. Those little buggers seem to want to pop up everywhere. On the up side, bubbles are easy to fix. I just need to sand them down and apply some more shellac. So that is what I did. I will glue it up tomorrow.
The Henry Wood goes well. I figured out how to write the NCX code, for the TOC (Table of Contents). It is not terribly complex code, but I did have some troubles finding a good example. Why is it important to have NCX code, instead of just typing up the TOC, one might ask. The NCX code is what allows a Kindle user to click on the table of contents and jump immediately to the chapter they wish to read. Now I assume that anyone starting Henry Wood, will, upon getting into the first chapter, be so enthralled, as to prefer death to stopping reading. So it may never come up.
I still wanted to add it, because, like everything on this journey, I like to learn. The next book may be about photography tips. This would be a perfect example of a book, which a reader would want to jump to a specific chapter of interest. Now I realize that most of you may not be interested in ever publishing to a Kindle or other epub format, but for those who are, let me show you the code I have for Henry Wood.
NCX Table of Contents Code
The first line is important. I don’t know why, but I imagine it tells the Kindle something important. The second line, h3 is a heading type, the alignment is to the center, and the the word ‘Contents’ is displayed, followed by the closed /h3 tag. Then the 3rd line starts by aligning the chapter in the center too, adds the identifyer for the anchor, and then the portion which will be displayed ‘January 1955′
<div name=”toc”>
<h3 align=”center”>Contents</h3>
<p align=”center”>1 – <a href=”#chapter1″>January 1955</a></p>
After one has created a line for each chapter heading, one must then add the anchor to space before each chapter. It looks like this.
<div id=”chapter1″>
And I placed it right before the chapter heading <p><b>Chapter 1</b></p>.
It all looks pretty confusing, but it is important to include. I want Henry Wood to be of the best quality possible, much like I want the ikebana to be bubble free. So now I need to create a jpg file for the Title Page, and figure out how to include a photo. Then I will be ready to hit publish. I would imagine that by the time I do figure this out, the repair coat will be dry, and I can glue up the ikebana.
FWIW, I find it much easier to pad on shellac, although it does take more coats (to get the same build) and a final sanding with 600+ to get a smooth surface. I've never used it on small object, though ... just larger table tops and things of that nature.
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LikeIt all looks pretty confusing, but it is important to include. I want Henry Wood to be of the best quality possible, much like I want the ikebana to be bubble free. So now I need to create a jpg file for the Title Page, and figure out how to include a photo. Then I will be ready to hit publish. I would imagine that by the time I do figure this out, the repair coat will be dry, and I can glue up the ikebana.
Sometimes you should quit when you're ahead.
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LikeFWIW, I find it much easier to pad on shellac, although it does take more coats (to get the same build) and a final sanding with 600+ to get a smooth surface. I've never used it on small object, though ... just larger table tops and things of that nature.
- spam
- offensive
- disagree
- off topic
Like