My Journey in Writing, Ranting, and Woodworking

Hokie is steering you in the right direction. When metal-soled planes were introduced, woodworkers complained that they created "too much suction," and were harder to use than a waxed, wooden-soled plane. That was when corrugated soles were introduced.

I never tested the theory, but I do know the only parts of the sole that need to contact the wood are the edges and the area around the mouth. If they all line up under a straight edge, you are finished. Don't worry about the middle spaces.

I've spent too may hours lapping the soles of planes, and I understand your frustration. Start with the coarsest grit you can find, and use all of your energy there. The rest is just polishing.

These are good comments. I have been using 80 grit. Tomorrow I will try to find something more coarse. Thanks.

I don't really subscribe to the "perfectly flat sole" society but...

If it is taking a long time, you are probably not using the sand paper effectively. A wider range of grits is faster and gives better results. I wouldn't start with anything finer than 80 grit (I would personally start with about 40). Go with the coarsest until it is pretty uniform, then a little work with progressively finer grits in small steps. When the scratches are uniform, move along to the next grit. Take it down to 2000 grit and beyond if it makes you feel good and like shiny stuff. If you sit with something like a 400 grit trying to get it all flat, you will drive yourself nuts. It just doesn't take off enough metal fast enough.

Maybe I will work on the blade a bit and give it a try. The slow progress has worn on me a bit.

I've always wondered about the "only parts need to be flat theory". Do they mean coplaner or just flat? And what happens if the wood is a thin strip or just a short piece? Just doesn't seem right to me.

Jim

I'm pretty sure the only parts that need to be really flat are the toe, the spot right before and after the mouth, and the heal. If those are good, you can probably stop. I can't tell from your photo though.

Hokie is steering you in the right direction. When metal-soled planes were introduced, woodworkers complained that they created "too much suction," and were harder to use than a waxed, wooden-soled plane. That was when corrugated soles were introduced.

I never tested the theory, but I do know the only parts of the sole that need to contact the wood are the edges and the area around the mouth. If they all line up under a straight edge, you are finished. Don't worry about the middle spaces.

I've spent too may hours lapping the soles of planes, and I understand your frustration. Start with the coarsest grit you can find, and use all of your energy there. The rest is just polishing.

Find someone with a benchtop belt sander. flatten the sole. 2 min flat tops. now lap with progressively fine sand paper until it looks chrome plated. the iron should also look chrome plated NOW things are flat.

These are good comments. I have been using 80 grit. Tomorrow I will try to find something more coarse. Thanks.

You might go faster if you change your setup. I use a strip of sandpaper about twice as long as the plane. What paper grade are you using? I use P60 until the entire sole is flat, then work up the grades, each one removing the scratches left by the previous grade.

Changing up too early is disastrous!

I don't really subscribe to the "perfectly flat sole" society but...

If it is taking a long time, you are probably not using the sand paper effectively. A wider range of grits is faster and gives better results. I wouldn't start with anything finer than 80 grit (I would personally start with about 40). Go with the coarsest until it is pretty uniform, then a little work with progressively finer grits in small steps. When the scratches are uniform, move along to the next grit. Take it down to 2000 grit and beyond if it makes you feel good and like shiny stuff. If you sit with something like a 400 grit trying to get it all flat, you will drive yourself nuts. It just doesn't take off enough metal fast enough.

Maybe I will work on the blade a bit and give it a try. The slow progress has worn on me a bit.

I've always wondered about the "only parts need to be flat theory". Do they mean coplaner or just flat? And what happens if the wood is a thin strip or just a short piece? Just doesn't seem right to me.

Jim

I'm pretty sure the only parts that need to be really flat are the toe, the spot right before and after the mouth, and the heal. If those are good, you can probably stop. I can't tell from your photo though.